Truffles

I have often found it curious that something that didn’t sound so interesting when you first heard about it, is fascinating when you finally see it. That was true of the truffle farm for me. When we were looking for excursions, Judy said that we should see this. Others recommended it. I kept thinking that the whole experience sounded boring. “Visit a truffle farm and watch dogs or pigs find truffles;” the whole thing sounding boring. Perhaps it was because I had never actually eaten a truffle. 

To my amazement, it was a most interesting experience in a lovely part of France. We awoke in the morning to swans swimming beside our little balcony. At one point, Judy counted eleven of them but they were a little far away to get a good picture.

Our journey toward the Trussle farm started in Grignan, a little village on a hilltop surrounded by lavender fields. Of course, since we are here in fall, we had to imagine the beautiful purple fields I have long wanted to see. From there we rode to the farm and met a third generation truffle farmer. Apparently this area of France is one of best truffle producing areas in all the world. This man sells his product everywhere and apparently does very well with it. One of our group members said, “I’m moving to France and become a truffle farmer.”

In the beginning he explained how truffles are produced. The are like mushrooms, but they grown underground on the roots of oak trees. Once they hunted the truffles in the wild, but now they actually cultivate their own. Parts of truffles are kept from each season and then planted on oak tree roots that they have placed in groves along their property.It takes ten years for the truffles to begin producing, but after that period, they will grow there for sixty years. 

Because they grow underground, they still have to be located on the farm. This is done by the use of trained dogs or pigs. Apparently dogs are the best since they have found it very difficult to keep the pigs from eating the Truffles once they find them. The dog begins his “truffle training,” when only a puppy. At first the farmer teaches the puppy to enjoy eating the truffle, but then encourages the dog not to eat the truffle that she finds by instead giving  her a biscuit when the truffle is found. Apparently, it doesn’t often work that well since, as we witnessed, one of the dogs kept eating the truffles she found before she  could be enticed away  by the biscuit. Female dogs are better truffle sniffers we were told because the male dogs tend to be more interested in the female dogs than the truffles—what can you say.

We were told that the truffle business in France is now growing faster than the wine industry, which is hurting from competition from other countries. I remember learning in a wine class about all the restrictions that France places on its wine industry. For instance, in years with little rain, French wine growers must ask special permission to irrigate their vines whereas other countries allow their wine producers to irrigate whenever needed. 

Following the “hunting of the truffles,” we shared truffles on bread with sea salt and olive oil as the farmer and his family entertained us in their charming French farmhouse.

Before returning to the boat, we took a stroll through Grignan, a village crowned with a restored palace at the top and many delightful little shops. In season, the hilltop village is surrounded by acres and acres of lavender.

Our afternoon was spent with a sail up the Rhône toward our next port, Tournon—so peaceful and calm, the times for sailing are always among my favorite. As we moved north, we observed clouds rolling in and a chill in the air, a sign of colder, maybe wetter weather to come?

Tonight, we are fortunate to dine at the chefs table—an eight course meal with with pike as the main entree. Thanks to Judy for taking most of the pictures today.